Drink Date 2018 - 2030
Reviewed by William Kelley
Issue Date 31st Aug 2018
Source 238, The Wine Advocate
The 2018 Chablis 1er Cru Monte de Tonnerre offers up aromas of lemon oil, lime zest and honeycomb, framed by a subtle touch of reduction. On the palate, its medium to full-bodied, pure and glossy, with more cut and tension than the Vaulorent, without quite matching the liveliness and energy of the Schet.
Today, Guillaume Michel presides over this important 22-hectare estate, which as long been the reference for tank-fermented and matured Chablis, a style that the Michel family did much to popularize in the 1980s. Intense and tensile wines are the calling card here, pure and unadorned by style and consistently high in quality. Indeed, I sometimes think that Louis Michel is the most underrated of Chablis's great domaines. Certainly, prices remain very reasonable. As usual, certain cuvées stand out—at the premier cru level, the old vine Butteaux, the Fourchaume (Vaulorent) and the Séchet, Montée de Tonnerre having taken a beating in recent vintages—but the overall standard, even for the lower appellations, is regular and high. They come warmly recommended.