Drink Date 2017 - 2028
Reviewed by William Kelley
Issue Date 31st Aug 2017
Source 238, The Wine Advocate
The 2016 Chablis 1er Cru Monte de Tonnerre is showing very well, offering up a classy bouquet of lemon oil, iodine and oystershell thats framed by light reduction. On the palate, its full-bodied, rich and textural it was cropped at 25 hectoliters per hectare but remains tense and tangy through the finish. Billaud notes that it was bottled earlier than usual to capture more freshness.
After parting ways with Domaine Billaud Simon after some 20 years, Samuel Billaud has established his own state-of-the-art winery in central Chablis, where he is ably vinifying the fruit of some four hectares of estate vineyards, supplemented by purchased grapes. Manual harvesting of ripe but bright fruit is the rule here, followed by fermentation at 16 to 20 degrees Celsius in tank and inconspicuous wood and maturation for 15 to 18 months on the lees for the premiers crus. These are bright, nervy expressions of Chablis with plenty of concentration and length. In a sense, Billaud's evolution as a free agent has followed a similar trajectory to that of Billaud Simon under its new management. Producing classy wines of crystalline purity, this address already belongs on any list of Chablis's best.