Rating 93 - 95
Reviewed by William Kelley
Issue Date 4th Jan 2019
Source Interim January 2019 Week 1, The Wine Advocate
The 2017 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru is excellent, unfurling in the glass with notes of lime and lemon oil, crushed chalky, blanched almonds, dried white flowers and wet stones. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, deep and concentrated, with chewy extract, tangy acids and a long, chalky finish. Its a very promising rendition of a cuve that flies somewhat under the radar.
Under the auspices of Claude and François de Nicolay, Domaine Chandon de Briailles is in terrific shape. Over the last decade, vinification has become more and more gentle, with no pumping during fermentation or élevage, and no filtration before bottling. The wines’ tannins are correspondingly finer and their fruit component richer and more vibrant than was formerly the case. The grapes are seldom destemmed and new oak used sparingly, so the house style is strong, but for my money, these are among the small handful of wines that realize the true potential of the hill of Corton. Indeed, if these vines were growing in Vosne-Romanée and Chambolle-Musigny instead of Savigny-lès-Beaune, Pernand-Vergelesses and Alox-Corton, the wines they produce would already be prohibitively expensive, so shrewd consumers should take note.